A very useful resource for DIY binding mounting and comparisons is paper (or clear plastic) binding templates. Not only are they great aids for accurately laying out binding holes for drilling new holes, but you can also use them to compare existing hole clearances relative to new bindings, binding combinations and discovering unknown original bindings by the hole patterns on used skis.
Locate this screw by first dry-mounting the heel unit, mark the additional screw location, remove binding from ski, drill hole, then do final mount of heel unit.) Step 2 Lay the heel template on the ski, line up the center line, and align the left/right screw line with the mark on your skis. Tape template to ski. Download the user’s and maintenance guide-books of all our bindings. Within the manuals you will find useful instructions for proper assembly, adjustment, use and maintenance of our products. Find out how to properly install ATK® binding on the ski using the drilling template. REVOLUTION / Race / Drilling Template + Instructions.
Ski Bindings Mounting Template
Template Sources: Binding manufacturers often include templates in the box with new bindings (middle in image below).
Binding Freedom , the maker of stainless steel binding inserts has created a growing library of alpine and AT templates. (Bottom) Another insert manufacturer, Quiver Killer also is creating a template library (which may be edited versions of the Binding Freedom templates) along with other fastener downloads.
You can also draw your own (top). like we did with our CAD software, from a scan of the FKS/Pivot template provided by Look. It can be reprinted for multiple mounts and customized for different Boot Sole Lengths before printing.
Printing & Scaling: Accuracy is very important and the first step to verify printed templates is to check their relative scale and see how the actual bindings sit on the template to visually see if the holes align.
Check to see if the template has any scale or a dimension you can check with a ruler. Often the output from a printer can be slightly off for a variety of reasons. Scaling and reprinting may be necessary multiple times until you get it just right. If you cannot adjust the printing scale with your operating system or printing software, you may need to incorporate the use of graphics software that allows you to resize images and PDFs as needed before printing.
In the example above, the original print was off (too big) by 1mm in 200mm, or 0.5%. Since we needed to decrease the size of the print, we scaled the image 99.5% (199mm/200mm) to get the accurate result. If we needed to increase the output the same 0.5%, then we would need to set the printing scale at 100.5% (200mm/199mm).
For many the 0.5% discrepancy may be just fine, but if there are several layout, drilling and mounting steps off by 0.5% each, it’s possible to be off by a couple millimeters. On the other hand, sometimes minute errors cancel each other out and you can end up with dead on results despite the relative inaccuracies and many bindings do have built in adjustability. Regardless, it is best to be as accurate (especially for AT tech bindings) as you can with each step while also realizing this is not heart surgery and that these tolerances may actually be tighter than some shops and their binding mount jigs.
Splicing & Assembly: Because most bindings require variable Toe versus Heel piece locations due to variable foot and Boot Sole Length (BSL) AND the common printing length of 11 inches, usually two sheets are required per binding. As long as you locate each binding piece relative to the ski centerline and recommended or desired ski mount point and midsole boot mark, they can be utilized individually.
If you prefer to create one paper template per binding, you will need to print on a larger format printer or splice typical letter size sheets. Due to physical printer limitations, printing cannot occur to the paper edges. When two pieces need to be spliced, one piece will ideally need to be cut at the joint to assure accuracy during splicing (clear output does not need to be cut, unless desired).
Once one side is accurately cut, place it over the bottom sheet and a straight edge located along the center line. Align one edge and tape near the joint with masking tape to hold it close and still act as a hinge. Then align the other edge and the centerline of both sheets along the straight edge. Once this is correct, tape the other edge outside the center of the template.
Double check the joint and the straightness of the centerline. If you can measure any components between the two halves, do so to verify accuracy. One thing we add on our templates is dimensions that we can measure to double and triple check physical and relative dimensions. After you feel certain the two halves are where they need to be, run a strip of clear tape over the joint on the front and then the backside.
Repeat on another pair if desired for one template per ski and cut off excess paper on the sides and ends. The masking tape will be removed in the process. The template(s) are now ready to be taped onto the ski centerline and mounting point at the boot mark.
Ski Centerline and Boot Sole Length and Mid Sole: As alluded to above, the binding mounting templates are relative to the centerline of the bindings and ski edges. The longer the centerline and straight edge, the more accurate the whole process will turn out. If you do not have a long straight edge, a piece of string secured on it’s ends works well. Typically, the two paper template sheets can slide along each other with a guide to align at the BSL. The BSL should be marked on the boot sole along with mid sole/mounting mark. If not, then measure the sole at the bottom from the tip of the toe to the heel. It’s probably a good idea to measure even if there is a a Boot Sole Center mark in the event there was a manufacturing error or general wear and tear of the soles. If unsure, further research may be required before attempting any of these steps and mounting your bindings.
The “|A” is the center boot mark and the “MM 298” is the BSL for the boot n the example below.
The boot center mark is placed over the green mounting line for the 298 MM BSL on the template.
Using a hole punch at the BSL line helps you to align the template at your mounting line:
Other Binding Template Uses: Also as mentioned, comparing existing bindings to new ones and screw hole offsets can be performed. Here is a download that compares the midsole of a 328mm boot sole (not by SlideWright) to see an excellent example of how can be facilitated. You can turn off and on the PDF layers to isolate various binding combinations.
And a video blasting through the steps putting a template together:
Here is a high speed video on cutting, splicing and taping paper or plastic templates. Pause as needed to see the steps as needed.
(Use the Space bar to pause, arrows to advance)
Posted April 3, 2013 @ 1:12pm | by George Michaelsen
Mounting Ski Bindings.... It's pretty easy when you do it everyday and you have the proper tools to do so. Mounting your bindings properly is very important. If you've noticed when you pick your skis up after an adjust or mount; the tech or shop kid always goes over the bindings with you and shows you that everything is in working order. We don't do this because it's fun and we like to hear ourselves talk we do this because your safety is important.
System skis with integrated bindings are easier to mount or maybe I should say harder to screw up because there isn't any drilling. When we drill into a ski we don't do it free hand and we don't do it with a paper template either. We buy jigs from the manufacturer at a couple hundred bucks a piece. In the image below you can see what they look like.
Proper drilling is the reason we use these things we call jigs, you don't want to miss-drill and you don't want to drill through the ski (that would suck). We also want to make sure that we're drilling the toe and heel piece in the right spots for you specific boot. In the image below you can see a little line in raised plastic on the boot, that's the boots midsole.
When you are adjusting the jig to the length of the ski boot, you want that marking to line up with the mid sole marking on the binding jig. In the image below you can see the little marking on the jig.
Once you have those lined up and the jig position locked in place, it's time to place the jig on the ski, but where? On the ski there is a similar marking like on the ski boot or on most freeride skis there is a reference.
If you are using the ski all-mountain or don't have a preference mount at zero. Zero means factory recommended or not mounted forward or back. Some skiers have a preference as to where they like to be mounted and it can and usually does differ from ski to ski. When in doubt, ask!
So after all that explaining it's finally time to drill your skis! There are a variety of bits you can use, but the most commonly used bits are the 4.1 x 9.5 used for skis with metal in the core, the 3.5 x 9.5 is good most wood or composite core skis to prevent stripping and the 3.5 x 7 is used for all junior skis and skis that are thinner then an adult ski. We buy our bits from Montana but you can also get them from Wintersteiger.
Once your holes are drilled, make sure you get any of the excess/loose wood out of the holes so your ski bases don't dimple when you put the screws in, this is a common mistake. After that put a little bit of wood glue in each hole then your good to start mounting your bindings on your new skis.
If this seemed like a lot of information, is a little overwhelming or you don't have any of these tools; do yourself a favor and have a shop mount your skis. Now you know a little bit about what goes into mounting your skis. It's important that it's done properly so you and everyone around you can be safe on the mountain.
Marker Ski Binding Template
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